I
began studying Japanese in college and, after getting enough work experience
to be a desirable commodity, found a position in Tokyo. I moved to Japan
in March, 1994 and was quickly sucked into Tokyo's busy life. My office
is in the middle
of Tokyo surrounded by a vast urban sprawl.
Although
I work in an American company, there are of course things peculiar only
to Japan to be found. For example, I came into work one day to find the
biggest daruma I had ever seen. Daruma is a Japanese doll representing
perseverance towards achieving a goal or wish. To "activate"
it, one eye is painted in. Once the goal is achieved, the other eye is
painted and the doll is discarded. I never did find out what goal this
daruma represented.
Though I spend far more time in the office than sanity allows, I've been able to fit in some extra-curricular activities. Being volcanic and all, Japan has plenty of mountainous terrain. Just an hour straight down the Chuo Line from Tokyo, decent hiking can be found in the Chichibu-Tama area. The first Japanese mountain I climbed was Mt. Kumotori, the tallest mountain in the Tokyo Metropolitan Area. Standing at 2,018 meters (6620 ft) it's not a shabby climb.
In
August of 1995, I tackled Mt.
Fuji along with my good friends Chikako and Shinji. Like most people,
we climbed throughout the night in order to experience the sunrise from
the top. Though it is not unusual for 5000 people to climb it in a single
day, Mt. Fuji is not a trivial climb and is 3,776 meters (12,388 ft) of
pure drudgery (though we actually start from the 5th station, 60% of the
way up). Lots of people complain about it but it was definitely a worthwhile
experience. In fact, I climbed it a second time in September of 1997 with
my brother Alan and my friend Kaare. This was outside the official climbing
season so this time it seemed more like a "real" mountain with
much less traffic and no way stations or vending machines. It was a very
cool experience to see a bit of snow on the top and the ground and buildings
covered in brilliant rime
ice.
Where
there's mountains, there's bound to be some winter skiing action. While
I've heard complaints about the skiing in Japan, compared to Michigan,
the skiing is brilliant. Gala-Yuzawa
is just an hour or so from Tokyo. Nagano,
site of the 1998 Winter Olympics, is not that far either and even more
accessible now via the super-fast shinkansen ("bullet train").
For a change, though, a weekend ski trip to Hokkaido is always a good idea.
However,
certain people from warmer climes, despite excellent tutelage, may decide
that skiing is not
their cup of tea and refuse ever to wear ski boots again. No matter
what, though, a hot spring (onsen) bath in the middle of the snow is highly
recommended. Just don't do anything stupid like roll
around naked in the snow.
Of
course there are many cultural things to do in Japan like visiting temples
and castles. Odawara
Castle is close to Tokyo and is the only castle I've seen which has
a live elephant living next to it. Kamakura, Nikko, Kyoto and Nara are
all beautiful, historic cities and worth a visit. In Nara and Kyoto, though,
be careful of the rabid English class students. They will accost you and
quickly rob you of any free time.
One
can quickly get "templed out" so attending a Japanese baseball
game, or, perhaps a Sumo
tournament may be just the ticket. Of course there are plenty of bars
and restaurants and eating out or going out to drink are all common pastimes.
While
I'm living here, it's of course an ideal time for friends and family to
visit. Although Japan is prohibitively expensive, I've been fortunate to
have been visited by my friends Jon, Jeff, Hans & Chris, Mom
& Dad and brother Alan. Visitors give me an opportunity to
travel around to Japan to places I may not otherwise go. Plus I get to
experience Japan through fresh eyes once again.
Though
the rail and bus systems are unsurpassed, a motorcycle brings true transportation
freedom. I had never ridden a motorcycle before but after trying a moped
for a while, I entered Japanese driving school, got a license and bought
a reliable and peppy Honda
Spada. Now I shun the crowded Tokyo trains and ride the motorcycle
nearly every day.
I
was fortunate to find some good motorcycling friends who gave me the opportunity
to tour Japan and visit such places as Kakegawa
Castle, Omaezaki, Nagano and Sado
Island.
If
you go to an onsen resort, you may have the pleasure of the company of
a nakai-san or what I tend to think of as the poor man's geisha.
She sits with you during dinner to make pleasant conversation and to keep
the sake and beer glasses full. They often have a ridiculously
small cup, called an ochoko, which they use to take dainty sips
of sake.
Sometimes
you may run across a fertility shrine which contains a giant
wooden phallus. These may be put up, even in modern times, to encourage
the growth of a dwindling small-town population.
In
Japan, one is sometimes challenged to eat new and unusual foods, usually
fishy in nature. Believe it or not, a big
tuna head makes for a very delicious meal. I still have not determined
the appeal of octopus which is basically tasteless and has a texture akin
to a bicycle tire. You may be happy to learn that McDonald's and pizza is
plentiful in Japan. It's not always the same, though. There are versions
of pizza unique to Japan so be careful.
Japan
is a good base for reaching some great dive spots. I've had the pleasure
of diving in Guam, Thailand and the Philippines. In September of 1997 I
finally had the opportunity to dive in Japan with my friend Matt. We
went diving in Atami, a short train ride from Tokyo. I also tried underwater
photography for the first
time using a camera housing for disposable cameras.
You can see more recent Japan pictures here. These are from my 1999 motorcycle trip all around Japan. Also you might be interested to see a birds-eye view of my Tokyo neighborhood.
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Created: Oct 2, 1997 Last Updated: Feb 10, 2003 |